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battle, was almost preferable. The one point of superiority was nevertheless cardinal; their method 
was in intention scientific. That is, they proposed a definite technic by which a man could compel 
the powers of nature to do his bidding, no less than the engineer, the chemist and the electrician. 
There was none of 
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the wheedling, bribery and servility which is of the essence of that kind of prayer which seeks 
material gratifications. Sir J. G. Frazer has pointed out this distinction in The Golden Bough. Magic 
he defines as science which does not work. It would be fairer to state this proposition in slightly 
different terms: magic is science in posse. 
The compiler of The Book of Black Magic and of Pacts is not only the most ponderously platitudinous 
and priggishly prosaic of pretentiously pompous pork butchers of the language, but the most 
voluminously voluble. I cannot dig over the dreary deserts of his drivel in search of the passage 
which made me write to him. But it was an oracular obscurity which hinted that he knew of a 
Hidden Church withdrawn from the world in whose sanctuaries were preserved the true mysteries of 
initiation. This was one better than the Celtic Church; I immediately asked him for an introduction. 
He replied kindly and intelligibly, suggesting that I should read The Cloud upon the Sanctuary by 
Councillor von Eckartshausen. With this book I retired to Wastdale Head for the Easter vacation of 
1898. This period proved to be the critical moment of my early life; in two most important respects 
it determined the direction of my efforts. The two were intimately linked in certain ways and in 
order to make clear my position I must retrace my steps for a little and bring myself up to date in 
the matter of climbing, as also of literature. 
The summers of 1896 and 1897 were spent in the Alps. They were the logical development of my 
previous experience. I had made up my mind to look for a climbing companion of a permanent 
character. I had met Professor Norman Collie in Westmorland. His teaching and advice were 
invaluable. I arranged to spend part of the summer with Morris Travers, Collie's demonstrator at 
University college, London, and a very admirable "second man" he was. A man who writes treatises 
on "Gas Manipulation" and who knows how to rebuff the advances of his girl students is an ideal 
companion on a mountain. Unfortunately, he obtained an appointment in a far country and had to 
give up climbing in consequence. But we made our mark in the Alps, beginning with the first 
guideless traverse of the Mönch, the Vuibez Séracs, and the first traverse of the Aiguilles Rouges, 
climbing all the pinnacles. 
Travers joined me for a short time in August. We began by making the first guideless traverse of the 
M"nch. We started for the Guggi hut within two or three hours of his arrival, he having come straight 
through from London without breaking the journey. We started the next morning very early and 
made great speed up the lower slopes in our enthusiasm. Travers became extremely mountain sick. 
It was obvious that the barometric pressure had nothing to do with it; he was simply upset from the 
fatigue of the journey, the change to coarse food and the sudden call upon his full physical strength 
when out of training. Numerous other similar observations 
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prevented me from ever being so foolish as to attribute this sickness to the altitude. I have 
produced all the symptoms on Beachy Head in men who had been perfectly comfortable on the high 
Alps; and I experienced no discomfort whatever above 23,000 feet. 
Travers and I wandered about the Oberland for a week without going below the snow-line. His 
mountain sickness soon disappeared, but he became badly sunburnt. In those days we cherished the 
superstition that lanolin was a preventative; but the application seemed to feed the sores instead of 
healing them. A few days after leaving me he arrived at the Gornergrat, whither he had dispatched 
his baggage, in fluttering rags and with a face which was little better than one single suppurating 
sore. A lady sitting outside the hotel exclaimed indignantly that such disgusting objects should not 
be allowed to frequent public places. It was his mother!