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golden showers of sparks, that the envious stars determined to rival the display. Every cloud 
disappeared as by magic. But the fire remained the popular favourite! 
All night I toiled to dry myself and my clothes, refreshing the old Adam with coffee, potted 
pheasant and Garibaldi biscuits at not infrequent intervals. 
The morning was ecstasy. The light came over the sand, wave upon wave 
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of grey. The desert was dry. There was no water in the stream, save in rare pools. We struck camp 
early. 
We glanced up at the path which we had travelled; the ranges still glowed with unaccustomed 
snow; from the north-west the wind still struggled fitfully to assert its dominion, but we, with joy 
and praise in our hearts, turned our glad faces, singing to the assurgent sun. 
The most interesting village on our route was Ouled Djellal. It was quite a tiny place, but there is a 
hovel which calls itself an European hotel, kept by a strayed Frenchman. The village boasts a barn 
where one can go every night and watch dancing girls. I need not describe their doings, but I may 
say that this is the only form of amusement that I have ever found of which I never get tired. I like 
to drop in pretty early and sit there all through the night, smoking tobacco, or kif, and drinking 
coffee, cup after cup. 
The monotonous rhythm of sound and movement dulls the edge of one's intellectual activity in very 
much the same way as a mantra. The finest concerts and operas, or such spectacles as the Russian 
ballet, alleviate the pain of existence by putting a positive pleasure to work against the pale 
persistent pang; but, as the Buddha has shown, the remedy increases the disease. I have long since 
come to the point in which I could say that I had enjoyed all possible forms of delight to the utmost 
possible extent. I am not blasé; I can still enjoy everything as well as I ever could. More: I know how 
to extract infinite rapture from the most insignificant incidents, but this faculty depends on the 
refusal to accept such currency at its own valuation. This being so, it is on the whole easier to 
obtain pleasure from those things which soothe rather than from those things which excite. 
It has just struck me that these remarks may seem very perverse. Average people associate Arab 
dances with animal excitement. Such an attitude enables me to diagnose their case. They are for 
the most part incapable of true passion, but their emotions are so disordered and uncontrolled that 
at the slightest touch they give a leap and a squeal. Puritanism in the conventional sense of the 
word is, in fact, a neurosis. One ought to possess one's physical powers in the greatest measure but 
they should be so collected and controlled that they cannot be excited by inadequate stimulation. 
The puritan is always trying to make it impossible for those things which frighten him to exist. He 
does not understand that sensibility is not to be cured by protecting it from the obvious stimuli. The 
diseased tissue will merely begin to react to all sorts of contacts which have a merely symbolic 
relation with the original perils. This psychological fact is at the basis of such phenomena as 
fetishism. The saint hurries to the Thebaid to avoid the danger of Thais, only to find that the very 
stones rise up and take her place. Neuburg had a friend who had a friend who was an anarchist. He 
would not drink cocoa "because it excited his animal passions". 
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Little as I have seen of the Sahara, I have reconstructed its story in outline to my own satisfaction. I 
am convinced that the earth is slowly losing its water and that this explains what one sees in the 
Mediterranean basin, without assuming catastrophic changes in the earth's crust. We know the 
glaciers are generally retreating. We know that in the time of Horace snow fell heavily and lay long 
in the Roman winter.