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The Arabs also had their own fears for our safety. They have an ineradicable superstition that one is 
liable to be drowned in the desert. This sounds supremely absurd, water being the scantiest 
element of the Sahara. The root of the belief is that sometimes cloudbursts occur and sweep away 
camps which happen to have been pitched in ravines or depressions; but the most ordinary common 
sense tells one how to guard against any such accident. They are in terror of brigands and also of 
numerous varieties of devils. 
I thought it polite to impress them with my majesty as a Magician. With this object I took Burton's 
hint that a star sapphire was universally venerated by Moslems, and having bought a very large and 
fine specimen of this stone in Ceylon and made it into a ring with a gold band of two interlaced 
serpents, I found that Burton was right. I had merely to exhibit this ring to command the greatest 
possible respect. On one occasion, in fact, a quarrel 
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in a coffee shop having developed into a sort of small riot, and knives being drawn, I walked into 
the scrimmage and drew sigils in the air with the ring while intoning a chapter of the Koran. The 
fuss stopped instantly, and a few minutes later the original parties to the dispute came to me and 
begged me to decide between them, for they saw that I was a saint. 
I habitually observed the prescribed five prayers of the orthodox Mohammedan, and increased my 
reputation for piety by constantly reciting the Koran as I walked and performing various other 
practices proper to the highest class of dervish. 
I soon saw the Neuburg with his shambling gait and erratic gestures, his hangdog look and his lunatic 
laugh, would damage me in the estimation of the natives. So I turned the liability into an asset by 
shaving his head except for two tufts on the temples, which I twisted up into horns. I was thus able 
to pass him off as a demon that I had tamed and trained to serve me as a familiar spirit. This greatly 
enhanced my eminence. The more eccentric and horrible Neuburg appeared, the more insanely and 
grotesquely he behaved, the more he inspired the inhabitants with respect for the Magician who had 
mastered so fantastic and fearful a genie. 
Few tourists know even the most elementary facts about such simple matters as climate. I myself 
was amazed to find how many of the ideas which I had derived from my reading were utterly 
incorrect. Once, for instance we arrived at an inn late at night. It was shut. We had heard that 
when the coach arrived they would open, so we decided to wait for the half hour or so, as we 
needed food and sleep. It was a cold, drear night. To pass the time we took a stroll across the sand, 
intending to climb a small hill and get a moonlight panorama from the top. As we walked I awoke to 
the fact that my feet were freezing cold. I could not understand this at all --- the rest of my body 
was comfortably warm. I was wearing thick woollen stockings with puttees and the Alpine boots 
which have proved adequate in the Himalayas. Like Keats, 
I stood in my shoes and I wondered; I wondered; 
I stood in my shoes and I wondered. 
Wondering made them no warmer. At last I thought of putting my hand on the sand. I snatched it 
back as if I had touched a red hot plate. The surface was colder than any ice I had ever known. At 
that moment we heard the coach and ran back. I dashed in, tore off my boots and spent the next 
quarter of an hour rubbing life back into my toes. So much for the superstition that the Sahara is a 
sweltering furnace. On clear nights the radiation is so rapid in that dry air, that the temperature of 
the ground falls below freezing point, even when the air six feet above does not strike one as 
specially cold. 
Bou Saƒda is one of the most beautiful spots in the world. It is frequented 
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