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didn't tell me to my face what was the matter; and having been accustomed to be treated 
everywhere as a great lord, it never entered my head for a moment that they could suppose 
anything else. When I found out, I said to myself: Well, that is easy enough: I will show them some 
money. However, they still regarded us with great suspicion. They gave us what we wanted, but did 
not seem in the least happy about it. Further investigation, however, finally revealed that having 
money, they thought we must be brigands. We let it go at that. 
However, misunderstandings were not yet over. Three times on the road we were arrested as 
anarchists. The soldiers could not understand why anyone should want to go to Madrid except to kill 
Alphonso, and I suppose there 
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is something really to be said for this point of view. They gave us no real annoyance, our passports 
being as impressive as they were unintelligible. Of course they didn't really think we were 
anarchists, and they would not have cared if we had been; but most of these unhappy men were 
marooned for indefinite periods in ghastly districts where there was absolutely no amusement of 
any kind. To arrest us was a good excuse to have someone to talk to. That, incidentally, is more or 
less the case with idle officials everywhere, but in countries like England and America they have to 
pretend to take their silly formalities seriously, and so what was originally no more than 
désoeuvrement becomes deliberate annoyance. The pettier minds get to enjoy the exercise of this 
tuppenny-ha'penny authority, and the regulations which were perhaps instituted in an emergency 
survive their usefulness, like the vermiform appendix, and become the most tedious and irritating 
tyranny. 
The Pyrenean frontiers of Spain at this point are delightfully picturesque, though the mountains are 
anything but imposing. (Damn those Himalayas; they have spoilt me for scenery.) Some of the 
mountain villages are filthier and more savage than anything even in German Switzerland. The 
people are neither polite nor picturesque --- they snarl and stink. 
We had a longish day into Pamplona, forty-two kilometres, and got the first decent meal since 
leaving Bayonne. The poverty of the country is really pitiful. As George Borrow recounts, the Church 
sucks the life-blood of the people. One can quite understand the moralizing of Protestant travellers. 
Prosperity varies inversely with piety. Italy is only flourishing today in those districts where the 
alimentary canal of industry has been cleared of the taeniae of Christianity. The only city of Spain 
which holds its own with the rest of the world today is Barcelona, a notorious hotbed of infidelity 
and freemasonry. It is to the last degree unfortunate that these things should be connected in the 
minds of the unthinking with anarchy and other cults implying social disorder. Lord Morley was an 
atheist, Huxley an agnostic, and Edward the Seventh a freemason; but it would be hard to pick 
three men more genuinely enlightened or more truly conservative. 
From Pamplona it is three days' easy walking to Logrono. We left our hotel after dinner and walked 
in the cool of the night about ten kilometres to a place which we christened "Bats' Culvert" in 
honour of our shelter. It was big enough almost to be called a tunnel. Delightfully warm and dry, I 
do not blame the bats for their choice of habitation. 
The road to Logrono is very varied and picturesque. In particular there is one fine rock peak which 
reminded me of Tryfan. We found the days terribly hot and dusty. In order to test our endurance to 
the highest point, we talked to each other about the ices of Trinity College kitchen, which are the 
best in the world, with those of Rumpelmayer in Paris for a poor second, and the rest absolutely 
nowhere. The walk did me all the good imaginable, 
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but the diet was a little too much for my young friend, who developed chronic indigestion. 
The people live in the most poverty-stricken circumstances; they cannot even understand that there 
may be others differently situated. In one place they told us at the hotel that they could give us