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I have had little occasion to mention my wife and child. It is a case of "happy the nation that has no 
history". Rose had proved an ideally perfect companion. Since the nurse's elopement she had had no 
one to help her with the baby. There was also a good deal for her to do in camp. We often travelled 
over twelve hours a day in really trying conditions; we encountered more than a little hardship, 
what with fatigue, cold, lack of food and general discomfort; she never gave in, she never 
complained, she never failed to do more than her her share of the work and she never made a 
mistake. She was in a class by herself as a comrade. Even Eckenstein was not so competent all 
round or so uniformly exultant. 
We had been over four months away from civilization; and she had not only stood it but flourished 
exceedingly. When we started, she had been rather empty-headed and frivolous; while physically, 
though healthy, she could not be called an athlete. At the end she had acquired the kind of soul 
that is evoked by intimate contact with naked nature. Her figure was straight and supple, scorning 
corsets. Her limbs were lithe; her eyes bright and eager; her face aflame with the joy of perfect 
physical well-being and her heart exulting with the expectation of producing a new token of our 
tenderness before the end of the year. 
In these four months I had been mildly indisposed with indigestion for two days. Rose had had one 
slight touch of fever, and a baby a cold in the head which laster three days, and some minor 
digestive trouble during our stay in Yunnanfu. Not many families living in the most hygienic 
conditions in England could show a cleaner bill of health. We had good reason for rejoicing and may 
be excused fro feeling decidedly proud. 
The next day we went on the Lao Kay, where there is a good hotel, and more mosquitoes than I had 
seen for many a month. We hurried on by train to Yen Bay, a filthy hole with no redeeming feature. 
The whole country and its people are monotonously reddish brown; skin, clothes, food, roofs --- 
everything but the grass and the trees, which are all the same shade of dull green. The whole forms 
a curiously harmonious picture, very low in tone and undeniably depressing. The sky itself was 
uniformly leaden, though I suppose this was a question of the time of the year. There are few 
features in the scenery; a damp warmth broods upon the general dullness. 
On the twentieth we reached Hanoi, the capital, but only stayed for lunch. There is nothing 
particularly interesting about the town to people who have 
{498} 
been uninterruptedly intoxicated for months upon the beauty and grandeur of one of the wildest 
and noblest countries of the earth. We took the after noon train to Haiphong, the seaport of Tonkin, 
and put up at the Hotel du Commerce. Haipong is much like any other Eastern port. There is the 
usual colonial atmosphere and the variety of races like so much jetsam flung upon the shores of the 
island of officialdom. 
One deliciously colonial incident must be related. It gives the very atmosphere of Claude Farrčre's 
Les Civilisés. A large corner building on the main street had been condemned and had to be blown 
up. The boss of the gang in charge went for instructions to the city engineer. He ran him to earth 
after prolonged search in a combination of drinking-hole and house of ill-fame. He was up to his 
neck in absinthe, which is not really a wholesome drink in that climate; but he was able to talk and 
readily agreed to calculate the charge of dynamite required for the house breaking. He took a stub 
of pencil and worked it out on the marble slab of his table. Strange as it may seem, he shifted a 
decimal point two place to the right without adequate excuse --- unless we accept the absinthe as 
an apology. The boss went off with his figures and put in a charge just a hundred times too big. The 
whole block was completely wrecked; and they were still clearing the street when we arrived. 
We were lucky to find a ship on the twenty-second for Hong Kong, after which she was named. The 
boat was a dirty tramp tub; her skipper a drunken Italian who lived in flannel pyjamas which could 
not have seen a laundry for months and spent all his time in the smoke room, gambling and boozing.