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between each is two thousand miles instead of twenty. At each village Litton was received with the 
utmost courtesy and goodwill; but when he disclosed his intention of proceeding northwards, it 
created panic. They told him that to the north were no men but devils only; accursed races of the 
pit whose only methods of communicating ideas were envenomed arrows, pitfalls and the poisonous 
fluff of the bamboo which acts more subtly than ground glass. 
I thought this story extraordinarily typical of human thought in general. Everyone admits that we 
have reached the summit of wisdom, scaled the 
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loftiest pinnacles of morality, put the crown of perfection upon the cranium of progress, and 
everyone knows perfectly well how this remarkable result has been achieved. But at the first hint 
that anyone proposes to take a step farther on this road, he is universally set down as a lunatic of 
the most dangerous type. However, the most savage Lolos are content with that diagnosis, whereas 
the most enlightened English add that the pioneer is not only a lunatic but a pervert, degenerate, 
anarchist an the rest of it --- whatever terms of abuse chance to be in fashion. The abolition of 
slavery, humane treatment of the insane, the restriction of the death penalty to serious offences, 
and of indiscriminate flogging, the admission of Jews, Catholics, Dissenters and women as citizens, 
the introduction of the use of chloroform and antiseptics, the application of stem to travel, and of 
mechanical principles to such arts as spinning and printing, the systematic study of nature, the 
extension of the term poetry to metres other than the heroic, the recognition of painting other than 
voluptuous coloured photographs as art, and of music other than classical melody as art --- these 
and a thousand similar innovations have all been denounced as chimerical, blasphemous, obscene, 
seditious, anti-social and what not. 
We crossed the Salween by means of a bridge ornamented with shrines and a delightful and 
romantically beautiful house for the toll-keeper. Caesar, when he crossed the Rubicon, had less 
aesthetic attractions and less expense. I did not envy him, and as for the bridge, it did not seem 
aware of its responsibilities, which is perhaps the best state of mind in which a bridge can be. 
The road was in unexpectedly good condition from the Salween to Pu Pa'o, a long stage rendered 
unpleasant towards the end by threatening rain, which carried out its fell designs in the course of 
the night. For the first time we experienced native curiosity in wholesale form. We had been 
recommended to avoid this by secretiveness. This strange wild beast, a white woman, was to be 
camouflaged in Chinese clothes and bundled out of sight as soon as possible. 
I adopted exactly opposite tactics. I said to the people, "Come and see, enlarge your minds, 
increase your experience, take the fullest advantage of this opportunity." They were so accustomed 
to conventional European cowardice that at first they were inclined to be unruly and even 
suspicious. Can it be a trap? But a few minutes convinced them of my absolute faith and 
friendliness, so that everyone became good-temnpered and frank. Their instinct and good manners, 
which nearly all men outside civilization possess, soon told them what conduct was really annoying 
and offensive; and they abstained immediately. 
Europeans too often make up their minds to resent certain actions which are really quite harmless 
and natural. They persuade themselves that everything 
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which their grandmothers would not do in Sunday School must be resented with the utmost rigour. 
This attitude is the root of at least ninetenths of the trouble about "foreign devils". The only 
unpleasantness between local natives and alleged whites which came under my notice during this 
journey was when some travelling missionary, instead of attending to his own affairs, took it upon 
himself to insult (in wretchedly and comically illiterate Chinese) some villagers who happened to be 
carrying an idol in procession as part of the festivities of New Year's Day (January 25th). He might as 
well have spoiled a children's party on the ground that the fairy stories which amused them were 
not strictly true.