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second below Bangkok in the Gulf of Siam, with the whole of the Malay peninsula between them, 
while the third turns suddenly from south to north of east and reaches the Yellow Sea thousands of 
miles away. The "divides" or watersheds between these three rivers during their dramatic 
parallelism must evidently be mountains of the most interesting type. I wanted to visit a corner of 
the earth which appealed thus vividly to my imagination. 
Incidentally, there were practical difficulties. I had at this time no notion that everybody was a 
perfect idiot. I could not understand the parochial psychology of the average Englishman. Even 
Litton, the British counsul at Tengyueh, wrote, "I will say frankly that I had no idea that Mrs. 
Crowley or a child would be with you, and that while there is really no reason why they should not 
go to Yunnanfu, along the main road, they will, I fear, suffer a good deal of discomfort and 
inconvenience on the road from the inquisitiveness and impertinence of the Chinamen: which will 
try your temper. I would also recommend you to dress in Chinese style, and if Mrs. Crowley would 
not object to a Chinese lady's upper garment or jacket, she would attract much less attention and 
be less subject to annoyance." 
I did not in the least understand that the average Englishman actually resents being asked to sleep 
in a bedroom which has not been furnished in the Tottenham Court Road, and has not not and cold 
water laid on. I did not understand that his fears invariably cause him to interpret the natural 
curiosity of villagers who have never seen Europeans in their lives, as insolence and hostility. I did 
not understand that he regarded it incumbent on him to instruct the population who have been 
highly civilized for thousands of years in the rudiments of politeness and morality, to say nothing of 
religion. I knew, as I know that two and two make four, that it is only necessary to behave like a 
gentleman in order to calm the apprehensions 
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of the aborigines and to appeal to the fundamental fact that all men are brothers. By this I do not 
mean anything stupid, sodden and sentimental; I mean that all men equally require food, clothing 
and shelter, in the first place; and in the second, security from aggression in respect of life and 
property. 
Litton himself understood and appreciated the Chinese character perfectly. Though he was only the 
counsul of the most remote town of the most remote province of the most remote empire on earth, 
he ruled that whole province by the sheer strength of the superiority conferred by sympathy, 
integrity and moral courage. But his experience had not led him to expect that any other 
Englishman's character could coincide with his own at all these critical points. 
The irritability and insularity of the Englishman, with his snobbishness, pomposity and cant, had 
established a prejudice on the part of the authorities against allowing Englishmen to visit the 
interior of China. My countrymen could be relied upon to make mischief out of the most 
unpromising materials. Therefore, while the government of France encouraged its citizens to 
explore the province, Whitehall made it as difficult as possible for Britons. I got my permission only 
after senseless delay and encompassed by ridiculous restrictions. 
On November 23rd I went on board the Irrawaddy for Bhamo, but for one cause or another she did 
not leave Mandalay till the twenty-ninth. There are two defiles to be passed. The river is 
constructed by outcrops of rock so as to form rapids so dangerous as to be navigable only with 
extreme caution. I reached Bhamo on December 1st. 
The Irrawaddy is the scene of one of the most exciting commercial gambles of the world. At the 
head of the waters are mines of jade, and huge blocks of the crude mineral are shipped on rafts to 
merchants lower down. These blocks are bought by auction. It may almost be said that the 
purchaser relies on his clairvoyance, for there is no scientific means of determining what will 
happen when the block is split. The purchaser proceeds to split it and takes his loss or profit 
accordingly. The process is then repeated as the jade goes down the river. By the time it reaches 
Rangoon, it has been cut up into small sections an its ultimate value is approximately determined. 
During its transit fortunes have been made or lost.