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One further subject remained for discussion. I had it in my mind to put spiritual research on a 
scientific basis. The first step was to get mankind to agree on a language. Allan maintained that a 
perfectly adequate terminology existed already in the Abhidhamma, the metaphysical section of the 
Buddhist 
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canon. I could not deny the excellence of his intention, but from the point of view of the average 
Western student, the terms are so jawbreaking as to be heartbreaking. I said: We already possess a 
universal language which does not depend on grammar. The fundamentals of mathematics are the 
basis of the Holy Cabbala. It is natural and proper to represent the cosmos, or any part of it, or any 
operation of it, or the operation of any part of it, by the symbols of pure mathematics. 
On November 15th we started up the Irrawaddy by the steamship Java and reached Mandalay on the 
twenty-first. I spent my days and nights leaning over the rail, watching the wavelets of the great 
river and the flyingfish. I became insane. There I was, lean, stern, brown and immobile; and there 
was a set of disconnected phenomena, each with a sufficient reason in itself, and the whole of them 
uniting to produce another phenomenon; but there was no connection between one set of reasons 
and the other. Each wavelet was caused by certain physical conditions and the effect of the total 
was to slow down the revolution of the earth. But neither the socalled transitory, nor the so-called 
permanent, phenomenon was ultimately intelligible. Further, what I called "I" was simply a machine 
which recorded the impact of various phenomena. 
I wrote, "About now I may count my speculative criticism of the reason as not only proved and 
understood, but realized." And the following day, "the misery of this is simply sickening; --- I can 
write no more." The influence of the river journey itself had something to say to this. It is a vast 
implacable flood. The tangled forests on the banks seem like a symbol of disorder, desolation and 
disease. Religion itself becomes offensively monotonous. On every point of vantage are pagodas --- 
stupid stalagmites of stagnant piety. There is only one dagoba with any pretence to beauty. The 
eccentricity is explained thus. Even the atrophied ambition of architects had become sick of 
perpetual plagiarism. The contractor went to the queen and asked how he should build it. She 
extruded one of her breasts and said, "Take that for a model." He did so, and the result is a 
refreshing relief from the routine of the regular dagoba. 
But the prevailing impression is one of putrefaction. Moored to the steamer were flats piled with 
fish. The sun rotted them to the point when they became unfit for food. The stench was 
incomparable; it somehow fitted with the state of my soul. At mandalay I exhibited this state by 
this entry in my diary, "Saw palace and 450,001,293,847 pagodas." The criticism is unjust: I had not 
counted them. There is, however, one good pagoda in the city, the Arrakan, and there is one really 
beautiful Buddha Rupa. It is said that this statue is the only one which is a portrait of Gautama from 
life. This may or may not by; at least it is free from the sickening conventionality of the regular 
smirking stupidity. The real glory of Mandalay consists of the 
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tables of the law. There are ten thousand slabs engraved with the canon, each under a canopy to 
protect it from the weather. I thought I had done rather well in the matter of book production, but I 
had to admit I was sitting with jack high against a royal flush. 
Mandalay is ghastly most of the year. It is practically under water all the summer. At least fifty per 
cent of the European residents are on the sick list and a goodly proportion of these die outright. 
There is little to choose between the Irrawaddy basin and the worst parts of West Africa. 
Yet the dwellers thereof talked as if they were in a health resort whenever the Salween valley was 
mentioned by some intrepid spirit. This was encouraging, as my main objective involved crossing the 
Salween. The map had fascinated me. The Salween, the Mekong and the Yangtze Kiang run parallel 
for a considerable distance and they are so near together that it only took me three days between 
the first two of these rivers; yet the first reaches the sea at Moulmein, in the Gulf of Martaban, the