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It seems to me and to Pache also that the shortage of food is the fault of M. Righi who refused to 
send Naga when Pache told him to do so. This disobedience, which has come so near to involving us 
in disaster, must not be repeated. All the loads should be sent to Camp 3 except those which are 
under shelter. Righi must be responsible for carrying this out. For yourself, you should join us as 
soon as you can with at least ten loads of asttu and Naga to help us. The next three days will be the 
crisis of the expedition. 
With cordial friendship, yours. 
There was no difficulty whatever in carrying out these perfectly simple, normal instructions. 
Camp 5 is at the height of twenty to twenty-one thousand feet and certainly not more than two to 
three thousand feet above Camp 3. We had taken the first ascent very easily, it having been 
transformed into a regular snow track with immense steps made solid by repeated regelation. It 
might be called two hours' easy going. The doctor had recovered his health and his 
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good humour, and we had none of us a moment's doubt that he would put the fear of God into Righi 
and carry out the above instructions promptly and efficiently. 
On Thursday, August 31st, I started up the slopes with six men and a perfectly light heart. The 
problem was, of course, how to get the coolies up with the minimum of trouble. I sent Salama 
ahead with an axe and shovels on a rope. Their job was to clear away all loose snow and to enlarge 
the steps made by Salama so that the way up the mountain should be literally a staircase of the 
easiest kind. Their leader was a man named Gali. I remained close to him throughout so that if by 
any chance he fell I could catch him. 
I would not rope myself, so as to be able to go to the rescue instantly in case Salama got tired or 
came to a passage too difficult for him. We advanced very rapidly. We were certainly over twenty-
one thousand and possibly over twenty-two thousand feet. There were no symptoms of the slightest 
deficiency of physical energy on the part of anyone. I have never seen a man ply an ice-axe faster 
than Salama did that day. I was, of course, very carefully on the lookout for the slightest tendency 
on the part of the snow to slip. 
We had reached a shallow couloir. Reymond and Salama had got some distance ahead of the 
coolies. Some of the chips of ice dislodged by their step-cutting were sliding down in our direction 
and they began to carry some of the surface with them. I was warned by the gentle purring hiss, 
rather like a tea kettle beginning to sing, which tells one that loose snow is beginning to move. Gali 
saw the little avalanche, coming towards him, was frightened and fell out of his steps. I caught him, 
put him back and hastily anchored the rope to a wedged axe. But the man had completely host his 
nerve and by the operation of that instinct which make a drowning man throw up his hands, began 
to do the one thing that could possibly have brought him to harm --- to untie himself from the rope. 
I ordered him to desist, but he was quite hysterical, uttered senseless cries and took no notice. 
There was only one thing to do to save him from the consequences of his suicidal actions, and that 
was to make him more afraid of me than he was of the mountain; so I reached out and caught him a 
whack with my axe. It pulled him together immediately and prevented his panic communicating 
itself to the other men. Things then went on all right. 
Some of the slopes were really very bad; deep soft snow on ice. One short patch was at an angle of 
fifty degrees. It was a question of fixing a rope or finding a new route to the left, which I did not 
want to do as I was in doubt about the glacier above. There were some s‚racs which might or might 
not be stable. We went down to Camp 5 without further adventure, but the morale of the men had 
been shaken by the incident of the toy avalanche. Their imaginations got out of hand. They began 
to talk nonsense about the demons 
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