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never had any intention of earning their advances. Later, when I had to go on ahead, five men 
deserted Pache, whom I had to leave in charge. They were probably scared by superstitious fears. 
Pache could not talk to them and did not know how to encourage them. 
After leaving Chabanjong it was impossible to tell exactly where one was on the ridge. The paros 
have names, but I could never discover that they applied to anything; it was all rain and 
rhododendra. There is a place called Nego Cave which I hoped was a cave where I could shelter 
from the rain for a few hours, but nobody seemed to know here it was and I never found out. I had 
actually to rest a day in this abominable place, as the official permit for our party to enter Nepal 
had not arrived; but it did so during the day and one the eighteenth came a very long march of 
something like eight hours of actual going. During the latter part of the march the path dips 
suddenly and one descends some three thousand feet into a valley. 
Well do I remember this camp Gamotang! Apart from the flora and fauna, the last two days might 
have been spent on the Welsh mountains, but the descent to Gamotang was like stepping into 
fairyland. There are certain places --- Sonamarg in Kashmir is one of them --- which possess the 
quality of soft brilliance quite unearthly. There is really nothing to distinguish them from a hundred 
other spots in the neightbourhood, yet they stand out; as a genius does from a hundred other men 
in evening dress. I find these phenomena quite as real as any others and I feel impelled to seek an 
explanation. 
Assuming the existence of inhabitants imperceptible by our grosser senses, the problem presents no 
difficulty. One of a row of similar houses is often quite different from its neightours, perhaps on 
account of the loving care and pride of its chatelaine. When I see an analogous phenomenon in 
scenery, I cannot blame myself if a similar explanation comes to my mind. 
The weather was already noticeably better than at Darjeeling. It did not begin to rain till eight or 
ten in the morning every day. 
The partial failure of the bandobast kept us a day atGamotang. There was in any case no great 
hurry. I was glad of every opportunity to acquire the affection of the men. I was careful not to 
overwork them. I gave a prize to the first three men to come into camp every day and those who 
had come in first three times had their pay permanently raised. I made friends with them, too, by 
sitting with them round the camp fire and exchanging songs and stories. On the other hand, I made 
it clear that I would tolerate no nonsense. They responded for the most part very well, I never had 
any trouble in all my wanderings with natives, servants, dogs and women. The secret is that I am 
really unconscious of superiority and treat all alike with absolute respect and affection; at the same 
time I maintain the practical relations between myself and others very strictly indeed. 
It is the fable of the belly and the members. It is absurd for one speck of 
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protoplasm to insist on its social superiority to another speck, but equally absurd for one cell to 
want to do the work of another. There is another point, admirably stated by Wilkie Colins. Count 
Fosco says that the way to manage women is "never to accept a provocation from a woman's hands. 
It holds with animals, it holds with children and it holds with women, who are nothing but children 
grown up. Quiet resolution is the one quality the animals, the children and the women all fail in. If 
then can once shake this superior quality in their master, they get the better of HIM. If they can 
never succeed in disturbing it, he gets the better of THEM." 
I make it an absolute rule to be imperturbable, to impress people with the idea that it is impossible 
to avoid doing what I have done. I never try to arouse enthusiasm. I never bribe, I never threaten, 
but I identify my purpose with destiny and I administer reward and punishment unsparingly and 
impersonally. 
The ciikues began to be very fond of me, not only because of my good comradeship an my cheerful 
calm and confidence, but because they were subconsciously relieved by my conduct from their