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On the second the storm raged without letting up for a moment. I had really made up my mind, 
ever since it had been decided to give up the idea of climbing the mountain direct from Camp 10, 
and from my instinctive judgment of weather, that the expedition had failed in its main objective, 
and I was not in the least interested in killing myself gradually against my judgment. I was 
absolutely satisfied with the results of my original reconnaissance of Chogo Ri, and the Archangel 
Gabriel could not have convinced me that we were likely to succeed in forcing a ridge over three 
miles long of the moist desperate character. 
I have also an instinct about weather. I know when it breaks for good. I cannot explain it; but there 
is an absolutely definite difference in what one feels in two apparently similar storms. One will 
blow itself out in preparation 
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for a cloudless fortnight and the other will be the prelude to more Wagner. I was also perfectly 
convinced that Collie's ideas were correct. We had exhausted our vital capital; we were none of us 
fit to climb anything. In particular, we lacked the fine flower of vitality: the spiritual energy and 
enthusiasm. I doubt whether even a fortnight's fine weather would have restored us to the proper 
condition for an attempt on a mountain. 
On August 3rd the storm was still going strong; but we packed and went down on the fourth to Camp 
9, stopping at Camp 10, where many of our kiltas were still stored, to pick out anything that was 
worth taking home (which we calculated as anything worth over half a crown a pound) and anything 
which we immediately wanted, especially sugar, of which we were already in sore need. On the 
fifth we lay idle in medium weather, while the coolies brought down from Camp 10 the goods which 
we had selected, and on the sixth we went to Camp 7. 
The condition of the lower glacier was astonishing. Despite all these weeks of snowstorm, it had 
been stripped of every vestige of snow, whereas on coming up we had walked on smooth slopes. We 
found dry glacier, most of which was baby s‚racs up to fifteen feet high, sharp, slim needles of ice 
which were of course impossible to negotiate. We simply had to dodge them. I was constantly ill 
with fever, diarrhoea and vomiting, and only recovered when I got to Ghomboro. The symptoms 
were literally continuous. Every few hundred yards I had to stop, go through it and go on. 
On the seventh we rested at Camp 7. It was fine and the temperature in my tent was 37°; but the 
high peaks were "smoking their pipes" so that a violent wind must have been blowing up there; and 
as the morning advanced, the clouds gathered. However, I took a chance; and washed. It is a 
curiously refreshing sensation. I sometimes wonder why people do not indulge in it more often. On 
the eighth we went to Camp 6. My indiscreet debauch with water had added a cold in the head to 
my other miseries. Again a fine morning degenerated into thick weather. We rested on the ninth 
and went to Camp 5 on the tenth. It was cloudy all day and in the afternoon we had a violent storm 
of rain. On the eleventh we went to Rodokass direct by short cut, passing over a very beautiful 
scree whose stones were iridescent; every colour of the spectrum glistened on their rain-washed 
surfaces. 
On the twelfth we held a durbar and expelled Wessely from the expedition. Pfannl decided to go 
with him. Pfannl was now more or less well again, but he would never be able to climb mountains in 
the future. It poured with rain all day and the following, which I spent in bed. On the fourteenth we 
went to Camp 1. It took me ten hours; the last part of the march was very bad, the enormous 
increase of water having made some sections of the march impossible by the route previously taken. 
I was well enough to eat. 
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The weather was fairly fine, bar one or two snowstorms; but it snowed all night. 
On the fifteenth I went to Payu. Before leaving the glacier I had another attack of fever and was 
obliged to lie down for three hours. The weather had become quite chronic. There were glimpses of