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My duty was to see that the caravans crossed the comparatively short section of the pass which the 
men dreaded. So I spent most of the morning rushing backwards and forwards, encouraging one, 
exhorting another and 
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giving a hand to a third. I had no reason to suppose that the reconnaissance of the Austrians was 
radically wrong. By the time the last man had come safely through the critical section, I was already 
tired; and when I started to follow, I found to my dismay that the Matayun side of the pass, instead 
of being steep, was at a very low gradient indeed; and, so far from being free from snow, was 
covered deeply. The day being well advanced, the going was softer and more slushy all the time. 
Even the tracks made by the coolies had not made the way decently walkable. Faint with 
exhaustion, I dragged myself into camp at five o'clock at night, after a thirteen hours' trudge during 
which I had hardly sat down. 
My eyes, too, were inflamed. In the Alps, I had found myself able to go all day in bright sunshine 
without dark goggles and be none the worse. In Mexico I became uncomfortable after an hour or 
two and had to put on my glasses. But in the Himalayas, even at low altitudes (the Zoji La is about 
five thousand metres), snow blindness is a real menace. When I got to the upper glacier, I found 
that ten minutes without goggles even under a clouded sky determined an attack. 
I was too exhausted even to eat until I had drunk half a bottle of champagne, after which I slept like 
a log. The next morning, I started late --- eight o'clock. The march, like that of the previous day, 
was fifteen miles, but only took six hours instead of thirteen, and would have been much less save 
for the soft snow of the earlier stages. There was no anxiety about the coolies, so that I had ample 
leisure to meditate on the extraordinary change of scenery on the far side of the Zoji. Nowhere else 
in the world have I found any similarly sudden and complete antithesis. Right up to Baltal, trees and 
flowers abound. On the other side of the pass is an astonishing abomination of desolation. Thence 
all the way to Skardu there is literally no scrap of vegetation, scarce even sparse rough grass; 
except where mountain torrents join the Indus. At such places, the natives have carried out an 
elaborate scheme of irrigation. The land is fashioned into terraces fertilized by a system of 
channels; and in these artificial fields they cultivate their crops, including apricots. In some places 
there are as many as five harvests a year. From a distance these oases appear very striking. The 
first impression is of a crisscross formed by the line of trees and the terraces. These villages glow 
with ineffable gladness. The marches, though often quite short in actual mileage on the map, are 
(generally speaking) quite severe. Eckenstein had observed humorously that from the top of the Zoji 
La it would be down hill all the way to Skardu, bar local irregularities. The piquancy of the remark 
lies in the fact that the total descent is less than ten thousand feet and that the average daily "local 
irregularity" approximates to double that amount. It is sometimes infuriating. One day, at the end 
(as I thought) of a long march, I caught sight of the goal not half a mile away, both it and I being 
close to the river. But a rocky buttress 
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gratuitously juts into the stream and the track makes a little detour of some three thousand feet in 
height to pass it. 
Apart from the mere fatigue of these marches, they are made detestable by the utter monotony and 
ugliness of the landscape. The mountains are huge hideous heaps of shapeless drab. There is hardly 
one noble contour; there is not rest for the eye; there is no aspiration and no interest --- nothing 
but a gnawing desire to be done with the day's dreary dragging. In addition to this there is a good 
deal of actual discomfort. The glare of the sun in very distressing and either it, or its reflection 
from the hot arid rocks, is scorching. At the same time it often happens that a bitterly biting wind is 
blowing. It seems to eat into one's very bones with harsh cold. One does not know what to do about 
clothes. On one side one is roasted; one the other frozen. It is easy to understand how the heart 
leaps whenever the eye falls upon the distant green lattice of a grove, and even how eagerly the 
eye looks for geological indication of the probability of one appearing. It is an additional annoyance