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Sunday the twenty-third I went aboard S.S. Kapurthala to return to Calcutta. The next day we 
anchored outside Chittagong, a most uninteresting place. I was to lazy to land. Two days later I got 
back to Calcutta. Getting my mail, I busied myself in preparing for the great journey. It was now 
definitely settled that our expedition should meet at Rawalpindi. I only took one day off, when I 
went to Sodpur snipe shooting with a friend of Thornton's, with whom I was now staying, Lambe 
having gone off to Australia. 
I have inserted the record of this short excursion somewhat at length. Most of it is taken from an 
account written up when it was still fresh in my mind. It should give an idea of the daily detail of 
such journeys and enable the reader to clothe with flesh the skeleton of my subsequent wanderings. 
On the seventh of March I left for Benares and saw the usual sights --- temples, yogis and dancing 
girls. I had become very cynical and blas‚ about all these things, which only a few months before 
would have roused me to ecstasies of wonder. But I now made a wry mouth at the sour sub-flavour 
of everything. My conversation with Allan about Buddhism, and my own meditations, had 
disenchanted me. Everything was recognized automatically as illusion, calculated to fetter the soul 
if one allowed it to fool one. 
On the twelfth I reached Agra. My entry about the Taj Mahal is interesting. 
Saw Taj. A dream of beauty, with appallingly evil things dwelling therein. I actually had to use. 
H.P.K. formula! (This means that I assumed the god-form of Harpocrates to prevent the invasion of 
my aura by objectionable ideas.) The building soon palls, the evil aura is apparent and disgust 
succeeds. But the central hall is like a magic circle, of strained aura, like after the banishing. 
The aesthetic criticism needs revision. I do not think the building beautiful; the conception is too 
exquisite for the scale of the execution. The is that of an etching twenty feet by thirty. 
This reminds me of a puzzle that perplexed me many years later in Washington, D.C. I could not 
understand why the obelisk was so atrociously ugly. "How can even the Americans," I said to myself, 
"go wrong over so absolutely simple a form?" I asked the sculptor, Paul Bartlett, who cleared up the 
difficulty, simply and shortly: "An obelisk is a monolith." 
It is one of the fundamental qualities of men who understand a subject perfectly to be able to 
sweep away the most elaborate illusions by appeal to bedrock fact. I remember how Frank Harris 
once enlightened me about imitation pearls. One knows how cleverly the manufacturers of these 
things present their case so as to deceive the very elect. But Frank Harris said: "A 
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pearl is a stone." And the whole fantastic fabric of falsehood crumbled at the touch! 
I cannot omit to mention one atrocity at Agra. Some prurient English curator had indulged his foul 
instincts by whitewashing a magnificent fresco in the palace because it was "improper". In other 
words, he was so leprously lascivious that anything which reminded him of reproduction produced a 
frenzied spasm of sensuality in his soul. However, his vandalism still cried out against him. The 
beautiful wall which he had made as blank as his intelligence still reminded him of his rottenness. 
He had no resource but to whitewash all the other walls, in order to secure artistic uniformity! 
After all, it is perhaps the best thing to do; having bowdlerized Shakespeare and edited the Bible so 
as to remove all reference to any kind of sin, it is hardly worth while to preserve the remains. There 
are only two courses open to logic; one can either accept the universe as it is, face every fact 
frankly and fearlessly, and make one's soul immune to the influence of any invasion; or abolish the 
whole thing by administering soporifics to the spirit. After all, the virtues which are dearest to 
degenerate Europeans imply the existence of those very things which they are most concerned to 
deny. The pious pretence that evil does not exist only makes it vague, enormous and menacing. Its 
overshadowing formlessness obsesses the mind. The way to beat an enemy is to define him clearly,