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close shot at him, which put an end to his career. That evening we tried to eat roast parrots, but it 
was a total failure. I am told, however, that parrot pie is quite a good dish; well, I don't like parrot, 
so there will be all the more for those who do. 
The next day I was naturally feeling very tired; but in the afternoon I summoned enough energy to 
go for a short stroll. I was very anxious to show Thornton a beautiful view of a hillside and river, 
which I had come across on my way home. We set out, he being armed with a sketch book and a 
kukri, which he would always carry about with him, though I could never understand the reason; if I 
had been anticipating the day's events, I should not have troubled to inquire. At the edge of the hill 
weariness overtook me; I sat down, pointing to him a tiny path down the hill slope which he was to 
pursue. He was rather a long time returning, and I was just about to follow in search when I heard 
his cooee; in a couple of minutes he rejoined me. I was rather surprised to see that his kukri was 
covered with blood. I said, "I knew you would fall over something one day. Where have you cut 
yourself?" He explained that he had not cut himself, but that an animal had tried to dispute the 
path with him and that he had hit it on the head, whereon the animal had rolled down the steep 
slopes towards the river. I could not make out from his description what kind of an animal it could 
possibly be, but on examining the tracks I saw them to be those of a nearly full-grown leopard. We 
did not retrieve the body, though it must have been mortally wounded, otherwise Thornton would 
hardly have escaped so easily. 
The headman now returned and told us that he could not give us coolies to cross the Arakan Hills, 
nobody had ever been there, and it was very dangerous, and everyone who went there died, and all 
that sort of thing. But 
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he could give us men to go about twenty miles, and no doubt we should be able to get more coolies 
there. I thought there was more than a little doubt; and, taking one thing with another, decided it 
would be best to give up the idea and go instead back to the Irrawaddy down the Mindon Chong; we 
consequently hired a boat of the dug-out type, about thirty-five feet long and just broad enough for 
two men to pass; over the middle of the boat was the usual awning. The next morning we started 
down the stream, always through the most delightful country and among charming people. All the 
villages in this part of the country are strongly fortified with palisades of sharpened bamboos. The 
voyage down the river was exceedingly pleasant and the shooting delightful. One could sit on the 
stern of the boat and pot away all day at everything, from snipe to heron. Our Burmese boys and 
the kites had great rivalry in retrieving the game. The kites seemed to know that they would not be 
shot at. I had another slight attack of fever in the afternoon, but nothing to speak of. We tied up at 
Sakade for the night. There was no dak bungalow near and one does not sleep in a Burmese village 
unless necessity compels. And yet 
By palm and pagoda enchaunted o'ershadowed, I lie in the light 
Of stars that are bright beyond suns that all poets have vaunted 
In the deep-breathing amorous bosom of forests of Amazon might, 
By palm and pagoda enchaunted. 
By spells that are murmured, and rays of my soul strongly flung, 
never daunted; 
By gesture and tracery traced with a wand dappled white, 
I summon the spirits of earth from the gloom they for ages have 
haunted. 
O woman of deep red skin! Carved hair like the teak! O delight 
Of my soul in the hollows of earth --- how my spirit hath taunted . . . 
Away! I am here, I am laid to the breast of the earth in the dusk 
of the night, 
By palm and pagoda enchaunted.