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size. Most of the ornamentation has perished, but the loss does not really matter. The point of the 
place is the prodigious piety which erected these useless enormities merely as memorials to the 
Master. 
Frankly, I was fed up with marvels. All subjects bore me alike after a short time; they cease to 
stimulate. I was thoroughly pleased to find myself at last in India. The psychological change from 
Ceylon is very sudden, startling and complete. What is there about an island which differentiates it 
so absolutely from the adjoining mainland? No amount of similarity of race, customs and culture 
gets rid of insularity. The moment one sets foot in India, one becomes aware of the stability of its 
civilization. 
I spent some weeks wandering through the southern provinces. I cannot forbear mentioning one 
charming incident. At some station or other, I was about to take the train. A white man with a long 
white beard came down the whole length of the train in the blazing sun to my carriage. He had seen 
that I was strange to the country and asked if he could be of any service. (Unless one knows the 
ropes, one has to put up with a lot of petty discomforts.) The man was Colonel Olcott. It was the 
first act of kindly thoughtfulness that I had ever known a theosophist perform --- and the last. For 
many years. 
The rock temples of Madura are probably the finest in India, perhaps in the world. There seems no 
limit. Corridor after corridor extends its majestic sculptures, carved monoliths, with august 
austerity. They are the more impressive that the faith which created them is as vital today, as when 
India was at the height of its political power. My experiences of Yoga stood me in good stead. I 
knew, of course, that the average European would not be permitted to visit the most interesting 
parts of the temple, and I thought I would see what I could do to take a leaf out of Burton's book. So 
I disposed of my European belongings and took up my position outside a village near by, with a 
loincloth and a begging bowl. The villagers knew, of course, that I was an Englishman, and watched 
me suspiciously for some time from the edge of the jungle. But as soon as they found that I was 
really expert in Yoga, they lost no time in making friends. One man in particular spoke English well 
and was himself a great authority on Yoga. He introduced me to the writings of Sabapati Swami, 
whose instructions are clear and excellent, and his method eminently practical. My friend 
introduced me to the authorities at the bid temple at Madura, and I was allowed to enter some of 
the secret shrines, in one of which I sacrificed a goat to Bhavani. 
The fact is that Buddhism had got on my nerves. I preferred the egocentric psychology of Hinduism -
-- naturally enough, since the fundamental consciousness of the average European is sympathetic. 
Our very speech almost compels us to think of the universe in this way. Ethically, too, Hinduism 
appealed to me; it seemed positive; its injunctions seemed to lead somewhere. Buddhism repelled 
me by its abhorrence of action, its insistence upon the idea of sorrow as inherent in all things in 
themselves. Hinduism at least admits the existence of joy; the only trouble is that happiness is 
unstable. In practice, again, Buddhism suited Allan, whose only idea of pleasure was relief from the 
perpetual pain which pursued him; whereas I, with the world at my feet, was out to do something 
definite and even to take delight in the buffetings of fortune. I enjoyed this adventure immensely' I 
felt myself all kinds of a fine fellow for penetrating these sinister sanctuaries. 
To a young wizard waltzing round the world, some of the early impressions of the India whose 
philosophy and religion he has learnt to reverence so profoundly are a shade disconcerting. I could 
not help feeling the degradation of the woman who swept out the dak bungalow at Madura. She was 
a grotesque hag at thirty. I had seen nothing of the kind in Mexico, or, indeed, anywhere else 
before or since, till I struck the back-blocks of the United States of America. But in her time she had 
been a woman of great wealth, for I could have put my hand and arm clean through the lobe of her 
ear. She must at one time have worn enormously heavy earrings. 
Her attitude gave me a peculiar little shiver. To sweep the floor, which she did with a short-handled 
brush, she bent entirely from the hips, being straight above an below. It somehow gave me the 
impression of a broken stick. And then I was reminded of the queen's spaniel in "Zadig." For in the 
dust of the floor were two tiny trails made by her sagging breasts as they swung idly out of her 
cotton cloth.