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The fact is that the vast majority of people are absolutely impervious to facts. Test the average 
man by asking him to listen to a simple sentence which contains one word with associations to 
excite his prejudices, fears or passions --- he will fail to understand what you have said and reply by 
expressing his emotional reaction to the critical word. It was long before I understood this fact of 
psychology. Even to this day, it surprises me that there should be minds 
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which are unable to accept any impression equably and critically. I have heard many great orators. 
The effect has nearly always been to make me wonder how they have the nerve to put forward such 
flimsy falsehoods. 
The excursion to the buried cities was an education in itself. The first impression was of the 
shocking callousness with which the coach horses were treated. There was not a single one along 
the whole route which was even moderately sound. I began to set its right value upon the first 
precept of Buddha: Not to take life. Ass! 
At Dambulla is one of the most extraordinary works of human skill, energy and enthusiasm in the 
world. The temple is a cave in the rock, of vast extent but with a very small opening. How could the 
many statues of the Buddha which filled the cave have got there? It was the camel and the needle's 
eye again. But what had been done was to cut away the rock of the cave itself, leaving the statues. 
So gigantic a conception and so admirable an execution extort one's whole-hearted praise. Nothing 
so drives home the fact of modern degeneracy as this: not only are the Singalese of today utterly 
incapable of creative work, but they are so far fallen that they have piously smeared this superb 
statuary with thick coats of gamboge so lavishly that the delicacy of the modelling is entirely 
concealed. 
The rock Sigiri is very startling. It sticks up out of the level jungle without apology. It is supposed to 
by unclimbable save by the artificial gallery which was built of old when a city flourished on the 
summit. We hung about for some days, as I wanted to walk round the rock and try and find a way 
up. But the scheme was impracticable. One could not cut one's way through so many miles of thick 
jungle, and if one did one would have to be a monkey to be sure of getting a view. 
The only incident was that I came across my first buffalo. In the course of a ramble, I had come out 
upon a clearing in the forest where there was a shallow lake. A bull with two cows arrived 
simultaneously from the other side, in quest of a drink. In those days I carried a Mauser `303. I got 
within a hundred yards before he took alarm. As he raised his head I aimed and fired. The cartridge 
failed to explode and the bull thundered past me before I could reload. If he had been charging --- 
good night! I took the lesson to heart and always carried a double-barrelled rifle ever after. Apart 
from the extra time needed to lower a single-barrelled rifle and manipulate the lever, which might 
well cause a fatal delay, there is more than a possibility of a cartridge jamming, which would leave 
one entirely unarmed. 
We jogged on wearily to Anuradapura. This discomforts of the coach were great, and the monotony 
of the view desolating. It was all an endless flat tangle of vegetation. It was delightful to perceive, 
about sunset, a number of hills in the distance. Their graceful wooded slopes enchanted the eye. 
And this is the wonder of this journey, for in the morning I found that these were 
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not hills at all, but ruined dagobas, which time had fledged with forestry! 
To me these cities appear incomparably greater as monuments than even those of Egypt. They are 
not so sympathetic spiritually; they lack the appeal of geometry and aesthetics which makes the 
land of Khem my spiritual fatherland. But one has to grant the gargantuan grandeur of the old 
Singalese civilization. Their idea, even of so pedestrian a project as a tank, was simply colossal. 
They though in acres where others think in square yards. One of the pagodas has for its lowest 
terrace --- I think it is about a mile in circumference --- a ring of stone elephants little short of life