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The result of this attainment was what I should least have expected. I was not encouraged to 
proceed; it seemed as if I had used up the accumulated energy of years. I found it impossible to 
force myself to continue. It was nearly two years before I resumed any regular practice. 
The immediate current being thus exhausted, we decided to go on a pilgrimage to the ruined sacred 
cities of Buddhism. Allan had become more and more convinced that he ought to take the Yellow 
Robe. The phenomena of Dhyana and Samadhi had ceased to exercise their first fascination. It 
seemed to him that they were insidious obstacles to true spiritual progress; that their occurrence, 
in reality, broke up the control of the mind which he was trying toe establish and prevented him 
from reaching the ultimate truth which he sought. He had the strength of mind to resist the appeal 
of even these intense spiritual joys. Like physical love, they persuade their dupe to put up with the 
essential evil of existence. 
As for myself, I had become impatient with the whole business. Dhyana had washed my brain 
completely out. I went on this pilgrimage in a entirely worldly frame of mind. My interests were in 
aesthetic, historical and ethnological matters, and in incidents of travel amid new scenes. I even 
took a somewhat demoniac delight in sceptical and scurrilous comment upon current events for the 
sheer joy of shocking Allan, and even in horrifying him by occasional excursions after big game. I 
may as well go back a little in time and record my general impressions of Ceylon as a man of the 
world, in connected sequence. 
I was as full of romantic folly about the wisdom of the East, and the splendours and luxuries of Asia, 
as I had been about Jacobites. But already I had learnt to use my eyes; prejudices had somehow lost 
their power to persuade. My experience of the Order probably counted for a good deal in this. At 
the same time, I did not swing from one extreme to the other. "Blessed are they that expect 
nothing; for they shall not be disappointed!" I was in no danger of judging the principles of 
Buddhism by the practices of Buddhists. I worked out the logical consequences of any philosophy 
without reference to the criticisms of history. The Buddhism of Ceylon is 
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based on the canon of their scriptures. But the customs of the people have been for the most part 
adapted to the new religion; very much as paganism persisted unchanged, except as to terminology, 
when it was camouflaged by Christianity; just as the ass of Priapus became the ass of the Nativity; 
as Jupiter became Jehovah; Isis, Mary; and so on; as the crown of Osiris developed into the papal 
tiara; as the feats of corn and wine were resumed in the Eucharist, so did the old rites of fetish and 
ancestor worship continue under new names. The old demonology was adapted to Buddhist theories. 
The primitive instincts of people are ineradicable; their passions and fears always find 
approximately the same expression, despite the efforts of philosophers and religious reformers. So I 
was neither surprised nor shocked (as was the more ingenuous Allan) at the devil dances and similar 
superstitious practices which pretended to be a part in the pure rational and straightforward 
spirituality of Buddhism. The very simplicity and savagery of these practices were pleasing. The 
enthusiasm was sincere; there was no hypocrisy, no humbug, no sanctimoniousness, no protestations 
of virtue or assumptions of superiority. 
The supreme glory of Kandy is an alleged tooth of the Buddha. It is enclosed in seven concentric 
caskets, some of which are enormously valuable and beautiful. Gold an jewels are nothing 
accounted of. Some years before my visit, one of these caskets had been stolen. The King of Siam 
provided a new one at the cost of an incredible number of lakhs of rupees. He made a journey to 
Kandy with his retinue in great pomp to make the presentation in person and the priests refused to 
allow him to see the tooth! It was a magnificent piece of impudence --- of of policy. My own 
Unpretentious Holiness met with better fortune. Allan and I were permitted to be present at the 
annual inspection by the trustees. I believe the tooth to be that of a dog or crocodile, but though I 
got an excellent view at close quarters, I am not anatomist enough to be positive. I am, however, 
quite certain that it is not a human tooth.