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remember riding out from Zapotlan to lunch with some friends on their ranch. I fell in with a string 
of mules bound for the Pacific coast. As I passed a mule dropped from exhaustion. The men 
transferred his pack and left him to die. Returning after lunch, some three hours later, I found the 
bones of the mule picked clean and dry. 
One can always tell a Mexican by his peculiar habit of blowing through his cigarette before lighting 
it. The reason for this is that the government cigarettes are rolled by convicts, who are allowed 
what they consider an inadequate amount of tobacco daily for their own use. They therefore 
increase their supply by mixing dust with the tobacco handed out to them every morning for their 
work, and one therefore has to blow it out. 
It is said, I know not how truly, that a Mexican town, in a corner near the Rio Grande, was, in the 
course of the revolution and counter- revolution of the contending vultures in 1917, cut off for a 
time from all communication with the rest of the country. Presumably everyone buried whatever 
cash he happened to have. At least it vanished rapidly and strangely. The city gasped. What the 
devil was to be done? Being folk of sense, they soon collected their wits and said: "All right. It's no 
good crying for the moon. We've got to go on exchanging wealth. We'll simply barter on credit and 
strike a weekly balance. 
"If anyone fancies he's got a soft thing --- 
If we haven't got pesos we've plenty of string." 
The result was surprising. Business went on pretty well as in the past, with this remarkable 
difference: the motive for cheating and hording and gambling was gone. One could, of course, 
amass a fortune on the balance sheet of the town council; but it would be hard to cash in. So 
nobody troubled to outwit his neighbour or plot his ruin. They contented themselves with aiming at 
comfort and ease. Old enemies became fast friends; the usurers turned their hands to productive 
purposes; the loafers and spongers and gamblers realized that they must work or starve. The whole 
town prospered; poverty disappeared; financial anxiety ceased to exist; the moral tone of the 
community became almost angelic. Everyone had plenty to do, plenty to eat, plenty of leisure and 
plenty of pleasure. Everyone was happy. Of course it was too good to last. Communications were 
restored and a month later society had relapsed into a dog-fight for dollars. 
{207} 
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Lying sick in the Hotel Iturbide, I was attended by an American doctor named Parsons, which whom 
I stuck up a warm friendship. He was certainly a "live wire". The faculty had just devised as new 
source of income by inventing appendicitis. Parsons heard of this and wired to the States for a 
partner who could perform the operation. He then proceeded to advise immediate operation every 
time one of his many wealthy patients had a stomach-ache. At a thousand Mexican dollars a time, it 
did not take many months to pile up a fortune. 
The English colony in Mexico City was disliked and despised. The consul was habitually constipated 
and the vice-consul habitually drunk. It is a curious fact that all over the world these qualities never 
vary. A wide field is open the philosophical speculation. 
I came to frequent the American colony and club. I remember being introduced to a new but 
already popular and respected member, "Meet Mr. Tewkesbury," and, a loud whisper, "Thorne, you 
know, who got away from Chi with a quarter of a million plunks." At this club I met some really 
charming ranchers, who invited me to stay with them and convalesce. Their place was near 
Guanajato, a great centre for silver mines. Guanajato possessed an unique curiosity: some eccentric 
millionaire had built a theatre, sparing no expense to make it the most gorgeous building of its kind 
in the world. The stalls, for instance, were upholstered in real velvet, embroidered with real gold 
thread. For some reason, I think because the President had declined to open it, the owner felt 
himself insulted and kept it shut up. It was never opened at all except as a show place for visitors 
like myself, and finally was somehow burnt to the ground.