VUIBEZ ICE-FALL (Pages 69-70) 
 
Ascent of the S. branch of the Vuibez Glacier 
through the ice-fall.  Messrs. E. A. Crowley, M. W. 
Travers, and H. C. Travers.  “Starting from the foot 
of the Vuibez glacier we ascended directly towards 
the middle of the ice-fall.  Turning sharply to the 
left under the first big ice cliff we passed round it 
and bore somewhat to the right, climbing one per-
pendicular wall without much difficulty.  At about 
the level of the top of the rock rib which divides the 
N. and S. branches of the glacier we found our way 
barred by an undercut ice cliff, which at its only 
assailable point rose some 14 (20) feet above the 
detached serrac on which we were standing.  
Standing on this serrac and leaning over the inter-
vening crevasse the second man was able to sup-
port the leader, who, standing on his shoulders, 
cut hand and footholds in the wall above.  With 
some assistance from behind with an axe the lead-
er arrived at the top of the wall and the rest of the 
party followed.  Above this point the climbing be-
came difficult, and one very steep wall had to be 
climbed by means of a crack in its face.  Close to 
the top we were again brought to a standstill by a 
line of cliffs and were obliged to turn to the left 
along the line of a crevasse filled with debris. 
Passing under an enormous arch of ice and be-
low some immense serrac, we reached the left side 
of the glacier at a point from which a series of snow 
bridges brought us to the snowfield above.  The 
climb occupied 6 ½ hours.  Should a party be cut 
off near the top escape would hardly be possible on 
either side of the ice-fall.” 
 
M. W. TRAVERS. 
H. C. TRAVERS. 
E. ALEISTER CROWLEY. 
August 14th, 1896